|
|
Fabricating a RasPiDrum
|
|
|
=======================
|
|
|
|
|
|
by Benjamin Guitreau - test
|
|
|
|
|
|
Raspberry Pi
|
|
|
------------
|
|
|
|
|
|
### Pi
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/pos_gnd_leads.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/full_board.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/board.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/hot_glue1.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/hot_glue.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
### GPIO
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/gpio1.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/board_and_pi.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
RasPiDrum
|
|
|
---------
|
|
|
Gluing The Box
|
|
|
--------------
|
|
|
|
|
|
* First check that enclosure pieces fit together and look good. Then take them apart and lay them out.
|
|
|
![alt text](images/full_wood.jpg)
|
... | ... | @@ -50,8 +29,71 @@ RasPiDrum |
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/glue_side.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
* Then, even before the other sides have dried, it is possible to glue the other two sides on. An image of the last two sides being glued on is shown below. **Again, remember that for now, the bottom isn't going to be glued on.**
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/box_3.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
* If you leave them clamped for an hour, the wood glue should probably be dry enough to remove the clamps, as long as you don't stress any of the joints. (Look at your bottle of glue to make sure.) Then stick the silicone bumpers ("feet") onto the bottom of the box to make it nice. |
|
|
\ No newline at end of file |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
* If you leave them clamped for an hour, the wood glue should probably be dry enough to remove the clamps, as long as you don't stress any of the joints. (Look at your bottle of glue to make sure.) Then stick the silicone bumpers ("feet") onto the bottom of the box to make it nice.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mechanical Feel of the Buttons
|
|
|
------------------------------
|
|
|
* Push the silicon rubber button pads though the top piece of the box so that they are facing out.
|
|
|
|
|
|
* Sandwich the button pad sheet in between the box and the red circuit board using the 4-40 screws and nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts until the button pad is attached securely to the box but so that each of the buttons returns easily to its unpressed state after being pressed. Before progressing, make sure that you like the feel of the buttons.
|
|
|
|
|
|
* Unscrew the red circuit board again, and follow the instructions below to build the circuit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Circuit
|
|
|
-------
|
|
|
|
|
|
### Note
|
|
|
It improves the feel of the buttons if none of the wire leads protrude through the top of the button board. (Otherwise, the button pad doesn't sit as nicely on top of it.) One way to assure this is to solder all connections only to the underside of the board, as is shown below. However, it is alternatively possible to poke the leads into the inside of the board as long as they don't protrude through the top.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
* The next step is to solder the 1N4148 diodes to the board. The banded end of the diode should match the image of the banded end on the circuit board
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/diodes.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
* Next, solder header pins for the positive and ground leads onto the button pad breakout board. These header pins are included in the Sparkfun wishlist. Or, if you prefer, instead of using header pins, you could use short segments of solid wire (see below).
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/pos_gnd_leads.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/full_board.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/board.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/hot_glue1.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/hot_glue.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
### GPIO
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/gpio1.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
![alt text](images/board_and_pi.jpg)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|