| ... | ... | @@ -36,163 +36,165 @@ Amplifier: |
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* Feed the diode into the power slot on the amplifier. Make sure the diode is facing the proper way (the line should be touching the amplifier). Solder this connection and trim the excess wire from the diode.
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image5
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* Next, cut a female jumper wire in half and remove some of the insulation at the cut end. Feed this through the ground slot on the amplifier. Solder and trim as you did with the diode.
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image6
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* Solder lead wires to the ⅛” headphone plug. I recommend using heat shrink on these solder connections to isolate them and prevent a short.
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image7
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* Solder the headphone plug to the amplifier. The center pin (tip) on the plug should be wired to the positive (+) In slot on the amplifier and the side pin (sleeve) wired to the negative (-) In slot.
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* Solder lead wires to the Out slots of the amplifier as shown:
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image8
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Speakers:
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* Cut two short lead wires and remove insulation from the ends
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image9
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* Twist one short wire to each of the ends of the leads coming out of the amplifier Out slots. Solder these ends to a speaker. The positive Out slot should connect to the positive pin on the speaker. Same for the negative.
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image10
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* Connect the speakers in parallel (positive gets wired to positive, negative to negative).
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image11
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* Epoxy the speakers to the bottom housing plate. Apply a small amount of pressure to the speakers as the glue dries to ensure a tight seal.
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image12
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* Attach housing side 1 to the bottom plate. Again, check for fit and take note of which tabs make contact. Apply epoxy to each tab and connect. To make sure it dries square, I recommend connecting the other three sides, just to enforce shape (make sure not to accidentally glue these other sides on as well).
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* Once epoxy dries, attach side 2 in the same manner. For added strength and weather proofing, I recommend applying a layer of epoxy to each connecting edge.
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image13
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* Epoxy plastic nuts to the bottom plate in the same way as the pi stand
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image13b
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Chimes:
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image14
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* Epoxy the sides and top to the back as shown. Leave the front off for now to allow access for wiring.
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image15
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LEDs:
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image16
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* Trim the anode (LONGER) wire from the LED as shown: You should be left with the short wire and a now-shorter wire.
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image16b
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* Trim one side of a 75 ohm resister to about the same length
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* Make hooks in the trimmed wires as shown:
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image17
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* Connect the hooks and solder:
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image18
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* Heat shrink the connections to prevent a short.
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image19
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* Cut four lead wires 8-9 inches long. Remove about one inch of insulation from one end of each.
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image20
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* Make another cut into the insulation about two inches from the original cut (careful not to cut the wire). Use the wire strippers to slide the insulation toward the end of the wire. You should now have a length of wire with two bare spots:
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image21
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![alt text]image21
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Do this with each wire.
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* Wrap the inner bare wire around the free end of the resister attached to the LED and solder:
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image22
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![alt text]image22
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Heat shrink the connection. Do this with each wire/LED.
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image23
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![alt text]image23
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* Cut four more lead wires of approximately the same length as the previous four. Remove the insulation from the tips of these wires and solder to the unused wire from the LEDs:
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* Trim away the excess wire from the LED and heat shrink. Do this for each wire/LED.
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* Feed both lead wires through the top hole of the the chime bars. Feed the tale wire through the hole in the back of the chime:
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image23b
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![alt text]image23b
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Make sure you can tell the difference between the resister wire and the ground wire (perhaps tape one to distinguish)
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image24
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![alt text]image24
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* Place a small piece of copper tape just above the hole on the back of each chime.
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image25
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![alt text]image25
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* Trim the lead wire to the proper length and solder to the copper tape:
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image26
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![alt text]image26
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Do this for each chime
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* Attach the front plate to each chime
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Wrap a length of copper tape around each chime, covering the solder connection:
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image26b image27
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![alt text]image26b ![alt text]image27
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Clapper/Paddle:
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image28
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![alt text]image28
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* Epoxy these pieces together as shown. If you’re using a matte finish acrylic, be sure you have the matte and glossy sides facing the way you want them.
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image29
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![alt text]image29
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* Epoxy this to the bottom disk of the clapper
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image30
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![alt text]image30
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* Cut another lead wire about 10 inches long. Feed this wire through the top disk of the clapper.
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* Connect the three disks (with screws, you do not need to glue these), allowing the lead wire to feed through the track of the middle disk so that it is sticking out the side of the clapper when assembled:
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image30b
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![alt text]image30b
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* Attach a small piece of copper tape to the clapper:
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image31
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![alt text]image31
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* Remove the insulation from the end of the lead wire and solder to the copper tape:
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image32
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![alt text]image32
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* Wrap a length of copper wire around the clapper, covering the solder connection:
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image33
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![alt text]image33
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Connecting Everything to the Housing:
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* Feed the lead wires from the clapper and chimes through the bottom plate of the housing. Be sure to feed the clapper through the cover plate before feeding it through the bottom plate:
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image34 image35
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![alt text]image34 ![alt text]image35
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* Make sure the copper tape from all of the chimes lines up with the copper tape from the clapper. Epoxy the wires in place by filling the holes where the wires come through the bottom plate.
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* Cut 5 female jumper wires in half and remove the insulation from the cut ends
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image36
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![alt text]image36
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* Solder a jumper wire to each of the lead wires from the chimes and clapper
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image37
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![alt text]image37
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Heat shrink all connections
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* Epoxy the pi stand to the bottom plate and attach the Raspberry Pi.
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image38
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![alt text]image38
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* Wire everything to the pi:
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- The ⅛" plug connects to the headphone jack
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| ... | ... | @@ -201,7 +203,7 @@ image38 |
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- The Clapper connects to the 3.3volt pin
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- Chimes 1-4 connect to gpio pins 14, 17, 23, and 24 respectively
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imagefritzSchem2
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![alt text]imagefritzSchem2
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* At this point, pause to power on the Raspberry Pi to make sure everything is functioning as expected.
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* If everything is working, apply a layer of epoxy to the gpio connections to ensure the stay connected.
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| ... | ... | @@ -210,23 +212,23 @@ Finish the Housing: |
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* Epoxy sides 3 and 4 to the housing. This is where slow cure epoxy is very helpful as there are a lot of gluing surfaces. Be sure to add a layer of epoxy to each of the inner connection edges to add extra strength and weather-proofing.
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* Build the top by epoxying the layers to each other. Be sure the hole in the center remains in line
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image39 image40
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![alt text]image39 ![alt text]image40
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* Attach the cable tie-off to the top:
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image40b image40c image40d
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![alt text]image40b ![alt text]image40c ![alt text]image40d
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* Feed the power cable through the top and connect to the Raspberry Pi.
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* Epoxy the top to the housing, making sure to apply glue to all connecting surfaces of each of the tabs.
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image41
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![alt text]image41
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* Attach the cover plate to the bottom:
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image42
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![alt text]image42
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Program, Hang, and Enjoy:
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image43
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![alt text]image43
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* You can easily program the wind chime by removing the cover plate from the bottom and making an ssh connection through the ethernet port.
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* Hang the chime and power it on. Let the wind do the rest: |
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\ No newline at end of file |
