For those inexperienced with using epoxy I recommend using a slow cure formula, perhaps a 15 minute cure. This will allow you plenty of time to apply the glue and set the pieces together before it begins to harden. This requires more patience than a fast cure, but it results in a cleaner looking product.
Before gluing, you should always test the pieces to see that they fit together properly. While checking for fit, take note of which sides and tabs come into contact with each other
Use a small tipped tool such as a toothpick or skewer to apply small amounts of glue. Make sure there is glue on every contacting surface (as shown), including the face and edges of all connecting tabs. The glue should be applied thinly so it doesn’t drip down the sides when the pieces are connected
Place some glue on each of the dovetail fingers pointing outward for the edges as shown below. When you fold up the outside edges around the piece shown in the middle, then there will be glue in each of the dovetail joints.
You will need:
Attach the back support to the face. Be sure to attach it to the proper side (when looking at it from the front, the ethernet cutout should be on the left.
For added strength, apply a layer of epoxy to the intersecting edges of the face and the support.
Attach the plastic nuts to the stand with epoxy. To do this, feed the screw through the front of the face and tighten the nuts down to the back of the face. Apply epoxy around the edges of the nuts, be careful not to get any epoxy on the screws. Once the epoxy dries, remove the screws.
You will need:
Feed the diode into the power slot on the amplifier. Make sure the diode is facing the proper way (the line should be touching the amplifier). Solder this connection and trim the excess wire from the diode.
Next, cut a female jumper wire in half and remove some of the insulation at the cut end. Feed this through the ground slot on the amplifier. Solder and trim as you did with the diode.
Solder lead wires to the ⅛” headphone plug. I recommend using heat shrink on these solder connections to isolate them and prevent a short.
Solder the headphone plug to the amplifier. The center pin (tip) on the plug should be wired to the positive (+) In slot on the amplifier and the side pin (sleeve) wired to the negative (-) In slot.
Solder lead wires to the Out slots of the amplifier as shown:
Cut two short lead wires and remove insulation from the ends
Twist one short wire to each of the ends of the leads coming out of the amplifier Out slots. Solder these ends to a speaker. The positive Out slot should connect to the positive pin on the speaker. Same for the negative.
Connect the speakers in parallel (positive gets wired to positive, negative to negative).
Epoxy the speakers to the bottom housing plate. Apply a small amount of pressure to the speakers as the glue dries to ensure a tight seal.
Attach housing side 1 to the bottom plate. Again, check for fit and take note of which tabs make contact. Apply epoxy to each tab and connect. To make sure it dries square, I recommend connecting the other three sides, just to enforce shape (make sure not to accidentally glue these other sides on as well).
Once epoxy dries, attach side 2 in the same manner. For added strength and weather proofing, I recommend applying a layer of epoxy to each connecting edge.
Epoxy plastic nuts to the bottom plate in the same way as the pi stand
Epoxy the sides and top to the back as shown. Leave the front off for now to allow access for wiring.
Trim the anode (LONGER) wire from the LED as shown: You should be left with the short wire and a now-shorter wire.
Trim one side of a 75 ohm resister to about the same length
Make hooks in the trimmed wires as shown:
Connect the hooks and solder:
Heat shrink the connections to prevent a short.
Cut four lead wires 8-9 inches long. Remove about one inch of insulation from one end of each.
Make another cut into the insulation about two inches from the original cut (careful not to cut the wire). Use the wire strippers to slide the insulation toward the end of the wire. You should now have a length of wire with two bare spots:
Do this with each wire.
Wrap the inner bare wire around the free end of the resister attached to the LED and solder:
Heat shrink the connection. Do this with each wire/LED.
Cut four more lead wires of approximately the same length as the previous four. Remove the insulation from the tips of these wires and solder to the unused wire from the LEDs:
Trim away the excess wire from the LED and heat shrink. Do this for each wire/LED.
Feed both lead wires through the top hole of the the chime bars. Feed the tale wire through the hole in the back of the chime:
Make sure you can tell the difference between the resister wire and the ground wire (perhaps tape one to distinguish)
Place a small piece of copper tape just above the hole on the back of each chime.
Trim the lead wire to the proper length and solder to the copper tape:
Do this for each chime
Attach the front plate to each chime
Wrap a length of copper tape around each chime, covering the solder connection:
Epoxy these pieces together as shown. If you’re using a matte finish acrylic, be sure you have the matte and glossy sides facing the way you want them.
Epoxy this to the bottom disk of the clapper
Cut another lead wire about 10 inches long. Feed this wire through the top disk of the clapper.
Connect the three disks (with screws, you do not need to glue these), allowing the lead wire to feed through the track of the middle disk so that it is sticking out the side of the clapper when assembled:
Attach a small piece of copper tape to the clapper:
Remove the insulation from the end of the lead wire and solder to the copper tape:
Wrap a length of copper wire around the clapper, covering the solder connection:
Connecting Everything to the Housing:
Feed the lead wires from the clapper and chimes through the bottom plate of the housing. Be sure to feed the clapper through the cover plate before feeding it through the bottom plate:
Make sure the copper tape from all of the chimes lines up with the copper tape from the clapper. Epoxy the wires in place by filling the holes where the wires come through the bottom plate.
Cut 5 female jumper wires in half and remove the insulation from the cut ends
Solder a jumper wire to each of the lead wires from the chimes and clapper
Heat shrink all connections
Epoxy the pi stand to the bottom plate and attach the Raspberry Pi.
Wire everything to the pi:
The ⅛" plug connects to the headphone jack
All ground wires connect to separate ground pins on the pi
The amplifier diode connects to the 5volt pin
The Clapper connects to the 3.3volt pin
Chimes 1-4 connect to gpio pins 14, 17, 23, and 24 respectively
At this point, pause to power on the Raspberry Pi to make sure everything is functioning as expected.
If everything is working, apply a layer of epoxy to the gpio connections to ensure the stay connected.
Finish the Housing:
Epoxy sides 3 and 4 to the housing. This is where slow cure epoxy is very helpful as there are a lot of gluing surfaces. Be sure to add a layer of epoxy to each of the inner connection edges to add extra strength and weather-proofing.
Build the top by epoxying the layers to each other. Be sure the hole in the center remains in line
Attach the cable tie-off to the top:
Feed the power cable through the top and connect to the Raspberry Pi.
Epoxy the top to the housing, making sure to apply glue to all connecting surfaces of each of the tabs.
Attach the cover plate to the bottom:
Program, Hang, and Enjoy:
You can easily program the wind chime by removing the cover plate from the bottom and making an ssh connection through the ethernet port.
Hang the chime and power it on. Let the wind do the rest: